Why is There No Pork Stock (Fond) in French Cuisine?

Overview

This video explains why pork bones are excluded from the core stock (fond) system of French cuisine using four logical arguments. It demonstrates how to make 'fond de porc' (pork stock), sauce poivrade, and sautéed pork loin. It also scientifically explores the differences between Japanese tonkotsu soup and French fond, the causes of pork odor, and how to eliminate it completely. Examining historical, cultural, and technical perspectives, the video discusses why pork was never integrated into French stock-making traditions, referencing the regional dish 'garbure'. This culinary science entertainment helps you learn the essence of cooking techniques by understanding the 'why' behind them.

Video Timestamps

• 0:00オープニング
• 1:28フォンドポー実演
• 4:57ソース作り
• 7:36豚ロースを焼く
• 9:06日本の豚骨は何故匂う？
• 14:28完全に臭いを消す方法
• 17:37日本の豚骨スープのコツ
• 20:12なぜ骨を焼いたのか？
• 20:58なぜフランス料理で豚のフォンが無い？
• 25:10ガルビュールという郷土料理
• 25:49エンディングトーク

Key Tips

• Prep (Bones)
  • Soak the pork bones in water for a long time to thoroughly remove blood. Do not skip this step, as blood and myoglobin are the primary causes of unpleasant odors.
• Prep (Blanching)
  • Blanch the bones by starting them in cold water, bringing them to a boil, and then discarding the water. Wash them under running water to remove scum, blood, and impurities. This is a fundamental step to significantly reduce odor.
• Prep (Roasting)
  • Roast the washed bones in an oven at 200–220°C (390–430°F) until browned. This triggers the Maillard reaction, extracting rich, savory, and aromatic flavors and adding depth to the stock. Roasting also helps render out excess fat.
• Odor Causes & Fixes
  • The three main causes of pork bone odor are: 1) myoglobin in the blood and bone marrow, 2) pork-specific fat (fatty acid composition), and 3) improper freshness control. A three-step process of blanching, washing under running water, and roasting almost completely eliminates the odor.
• Odor Elimination
  • To completely eliminate odor, it is crucial to follow these steps in order: 1) long soaking (blood removal), 2) blanching starting from cold water, 3) meticulous washing under running water, and 4) oven roasting.
• Making Stock
  • Combine the roasted bones, aromatic vegetables (mirepoix: onion, carrot, celery), and bouquet garni, then simmer starting from cold water. Once boiling, reduce to low heat and simmer for 3–4 hours while carefully skimming off scum.
• Heat Control
  • Do not keep the stock at a rolling boil. Maintain a gentle simmer over low to medium-low heat to achieve a clear, refined fond. Boiling on high heat will make the stock cloudy and increase unpleasant odors.
• Sauce Poivrade
  • Poivrade is a pepper-based sauce. Sauté shallots in butter, deglaze with red wine vinegar and red wine, then add the fond de porc and reduce. Finish by adding coarsely ground black pepper and whisking in butter (monter au beurre) to emulsify.
• Sautéing Pork
  • Bring the pork loin to room temperature before cooking. Heat the pan well, add oil, and sear over high heat to brown the surface. Then, reduce the heat to low to cook it through gently. Rest the meat before slicing to lock in the juices.
• Japanese Tonkotsu
  • To make a cloudy, emulsified soup like Japanese tonkotsu ramen, intentionally boil the bones vigorously over high heat for a long time. This emulsifies the bone marrow collagen and fat, creating a cloudy, rich broth (the opposite technique of making a French fond).
• Why Roast Bones
  • Roasting the bones in the oven triggers the Maillard reaction, extracting rich, savory, and aromatic flavors. Additionally, denaturing and coagulating the surface proteins helps prevent the stock from becoming cloudy.
• Pork Fond Reason 1
  • Fat from pork bones has a low melting point and oxidizes easily. Long simmering easily releases unpleasant off-flavors from the fat, making it difficult to control, which is why it never became a staple in the fond system.
• Pork Fond Reason 2
  • Veal (fond de veau), the gold standard of French stock, is rich in collagen and yields a clear, clean-tasting stock. Pork bones were deemed too strong in flavor, making them unsuitable for a highly versatile base stock.
• Pork Fond Reason 3
  • In France, pork has historically been dedicated to charcuterie (cured meats like ham, sausage, rillettes, and pâté). The value of pork lay in processed meats, organs, and fat rather than bones, giving bone stock a low cultural priority.
• Pork Fond Reason 4
  • Pork bone soups remained in the realm of home cooking and peasant food, such as garbure (a regional dish of Southwest France), and historically were never integrated into the grand cuisine (haute/court cuisine) system.
• Garbure
  • Garbure is a rustic regional soup from Southwest France (such as the Gascony region) made by simmering pork bones, salted pork, cabbage, beans, and root vegetables. It shows that using pork bones for stock is not entirely absent in France, but exists at the regional level.

* Tap ingredient names to find on Amazon

• Porkbones (spare ribs, spine, etc.): to taste (about a few bones to 1 kg used in the video)
• Onion:1
• Carrot:1
• Celery:1–2 stalks
• Bouquetgarni (bay leaf, thyme, parsley stems): 1 bunch
• Water:to taste (enough to fully submerge the bones)
• Vegetableoil (for roasting bones and sautéing): to taste
• Porkloin (thick-cut): 1–2 chops
• Salt:to taste
• Blackpepper (coarsely ground): to taste
• Shallots(for sauce): 2–3
• Butter(for sauce): to taste
• Redwine (for sauce): to taste
• Redwine vinegar (for sauce): to taste
• Fondde porc (pork stock made above, for sauce): to taste
• Blackpepper (whole peppercorns or coarsely ground, for finishing): to taste

Instructions

1. 1

   [Soaking] Submerge the pork bones in a large amount of cold water and let them soak in the refrigerator for several hours to overnight to draw out the blood. Changing the water occasionally is highly effective.

2. 2

   [Blanching] Place the bones in a pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil, and boil for a few minutes. A large amount of gray scum and blood will rise to the surface.

3. 3

   [Washing] Drain the blanched bones in a colander and wash them thoroughly one by one under running water to completely remove any remaining blood, scum, and impurities.

4. 4

   [Oven Roasting] Arrange the washed bones on a baking sheet and roast in an oven preheated to 200–220°C (390–430°F) until evenly browned (about 20–30 minutes). This develops a savory aroma through the Maillard reaction.

5. 5

   [Simmering the Fond de Porc] In a large pot, combine the roasted bones, roughly chopped onion, carrot, and celery (mirepoix), and the bouquet garni. Add enough water to cover the ingredients and bring to a simmer.

6. 6

   [Skimming & Simmering] Carefully skim off any scum just before the liquid reaches a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to low or medium-low and simmer gently for 3–4 hours. Do not let it boil vigorously.

7. 7

   [Straining] Once simmered, carefully strain the stock through a fine chinois (conical strainer) or a colander lined with paper towels to obtain a clear fond.

8. 8

   [Sauce Poivrade: Sautéing Shallots] Melt butter in a pan and sauté the finely chopped shallots over medium heat until softened.

9. 9

   [Deglazing] Add the red wine vinegar, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and reduce. Then, add the red wine and reduce by about half.

10. 10

    [Adding Stock & Reducing] Add the fond de porc and simmer over medium heat until it reaches a sauce-like consistency.

11. 11

    [Finishing (Monter au Beurre)] Reduce the heat, add plenty of coarsely ground black pepper, and whisk in cold, cubed butter while swirling the pan to emulsify (monter au beurre). Season with salt to taste.

12. 12

    [Sautéing Pork Loin: Prep] Remove the pork loin from the refrigerator 30 minutes to 1 hour before cooking to bring it to room temperature, then season with salt and pepper.

13. 13

    [Sautéing Pork Loin: Searing] Heat a pan well, add vegetable oil, and sear both sides of the pork loin over high heat until beautifully browned.

14. 14

    [Sautéing Pork Loin: Cooking Through] Reduce the heat to low, add butter to the pan, and baste (arroser) the pork with the melted butter using a spoon until cooked through to the center.

15. 15

    [Resting (Reposer)] Wrap the cooked pork loin in aluminum foil or place it in a warm spot to rest for 3–5 minutes, allowing the juices to redistribute.

16. 16

    [Plating] Slice the pork loin, arrange it on a plate, drizzle with the sauce poivrade, and serve.

About フレンチシェフ高御仁のガチレシピ

フレンチシェフ高御仁のガチレシピ

6,310人 subscribers ・ フランス料理

Learn from this YouTuber About this channel →

* Opens YouTube channel

* Subscriber count is as of article creation and may differ from the current number.