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A Professional Chef Makes Ishikawa's Hidden Local Specialty: Eggplant Somen

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Ingredients

This video introduces 'Nasu Somen,' a beloved local dish from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture, with a special twist by Chef Masahiro Kasahara. Eggplants are pan-fried, simmered in a sweet broth, and thoroughly chilled in the refrigerator to absorb the rich dashi flavor. The dipping sauce is made by diluting the simmering broth with fresh dashi, and the dish is topped with deep-fried tofu (aburaage), myoga ginger, and grated ginger. Chef Kasahara also shares professional tips on washing the somen noodles under running water to remove starch and chilling them efficiently with ice water. It is a hearty, refreshing cold noodle dish perfect for the summer table.

  • Prep
    • Making fine diagonal slits on the eggplant skin helps it absorb flavors and cook faster.
  • Prep
    • Soak the cut eggplants in water for about 10 minutes to remove bitterness and prevent discoloration.
  • Prep
    • Thinly slice the myoga ginger and soak it in water to remove harshness before draining.
  • Heat control
    • Pan-fry the eggplants skin-side down first to prevent them from absorbing too much oil and to keep their color vibrant.
  • Heat control
    • Add the eggplants to the simmering broth while it is hot. Putting them in cold broth will make them greasy.
  • Heat control
    • Place the aburaage on top, cover with an aluminum foil drop-lid, simmer over low heat for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat to cool.
  • Chilling
    • Once cooled to room temperature, chill thoroughly in the refrigerator to let the dashi flavor soak deep into the eggplants.
  • Boiling somen
    • Remove the paper bands before boiling to avoid rushing. After boiling, wash the noodles thoroughly under running water to remove starch.
  • Boiling somen
    • Do not add ice directly to hot noodles as it melts too quickly. Cool them with tap water first, then add ice to chill them efficiently with less ice.
  • Seasoning
    • Since the simmering broth is concentrated, dilute it with about 200cc of cold dashi to your preferred strength to use as the dipping sauce.
13 items

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  1. 1

    Trim around the stems of 4 eggplants with a knife and cut them in half lengthwise. Make fine diagonal slits on the skin side, then soak them in water for about 10 minutes to remove bitterness.

  2. 2

    Thinly slice 2 myoga ginger bulbs, soak them briefly in water to remove any harshness, and drain in a strainer. Cut 2 sheets of aburaage in half (no need to blanch to remove oil).

  3. 3

    In a pot, combine Simmering Broth A (400cc dashi, 3 tbsp dark soy sauce, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, 3 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp mirin, and 2 tbsp sake) and bring to a boil.

  4. 4

    Heat a generous amount of vegetable oil in a frying pan. Wipe the eggplants dry and pan-fry them skin-side down. Once they are about halfway cooked (after about 4 minutes), transfer them to the pot of boiling simmering broth.

  5. 5

    Add the eggplants to the simmering broth, place the aburaage on top, cover with a drop-lid made of aluminum foil, and simmer gently over low heat for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, let it cool to room temperature, and then chill thoroughly in the refrigerator.

  6. 6

    Remove the paper bands from the somen noodles before boiling. Cook them in plenty of boiling water according to the package instructions (about 2.5 minutes), drain, and wash them thoroughly under running water while rubbing gently to remove starch.

  7. 7

    Cool the noodles completely with tap water first, then transfer them to ice water to firm them up. Drain well in a strainer.

  8. 8

    Take the eggplants and aburaage out of the refrigerator, and thinly slice the aburaage. Transfer the simmering broth to a bowl and add about 200cc of cold dashi to dilute it to your preferred strength to make the dipping sauce.

  9. 9

    Place the chilled somen noodles in a bowl and top with a whole eggplant. Garnish with the sliced aburaage, myoga ginger, and grated ginger, then pour the special sauce over it to finish.

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A Silly Mix-up: 'Omen' and 'Somen'

Masahiro Kasahara opens the video with a humorous greeting, joking about mixing up 'somen' with the classic horror movie 'The Omen.' He recalls how terrifying he found the movie's character, Damien, as a child. Since 'Omen' and 'somen' sound similar, he shares an old Japanese wordplay phrase, 'Amen, somen, hiyashisomen' (Amen, somen, cold somen). He jokingly speculates that comedian Eiko Kano's famous catchphrase, 'Ramen, tsukemen, boku ikemen,' might have been inspired by this old saying. Kasahara notes with a laugh that while he struggles to remember recent events, he remembers the past perfectly, setting a warm and lighthearted tone for the video.

Ishikawa's Local Specialty: Nasu Somen

This video is the first part of a two-episode 'Somen Special.' The featured dish is 'Nasu Somen,' a traditional local specialty from the Noto region of Ishikawa Prefecture. Kasahara based this recipe on his fond memories of eating the dish when he visited Noto. He shares a story about finding beautiful eggplants at a local greengrocer, where local women gathered to admire them. Since summer is the peak season for delicious eggplants, this dish—which makes eggplant the star—is a hidden gem enjoyed in various regions across Japan.

Careful Prep for Eggplant, Herbs, and Tofu

The cooking begins with meticulous preparation. First, Kasahara trims around the stems of 4 eggplants, leaving the cute 'cap' intact while cutting them in half lengthwise. Since eggplant skin can be tough, making fine diagonal slits helps them cook faster and absorb flavors better. The cut eggplants are soaked in water for 10 minutes to draw out bitterness and prevent discoloration. Next, 2 myoga ginger bulbs are thinly sliced and briefly soaked in water to remove harshness before draining. Finally, 2 sheets of aburaage are cut in half without blanching, keeping their natural oils for extra flavor.

Pan-Frying and Simmering the Eggplant

To prepare the simmering liquid, Kasahara combines 400cc dashi, 3 tbsp dark soy sauce, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, 3 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp mirin, and 2 tbsp sake in a pot and brings it to a boil. Meanwhile, he heats a generous amount of vegetable oil in a frying pan and pan-fries the eggplants skin-side down. Frying skin-side down prevents them from absorbing too much oil and keeps their color vibrant. After about 4 minutes, when they are halfway cooked, he transfers them to the hot simmering broth. Putting them in hot broth prevents oiliness. He places the aburaage on top, covers with an aluminum foil drop-lid, and simmers gently over low heat for 5 minutes before cooling.

Pro Tips for Boiling and Chilling Somen

While waiting for the water to boil, Kasahara removes the paper bands from the somen noodles to avoid rushing during cooking. He boils them in plenty of water according to the package instructions (2.5 minutes in this case). Once cooked, he drains them and washes them thoroughly under running water to rub off the starch. His secret tip is not to put them directly into ice water. Adding ice to hot noodles melts the ice instantly and is inefficient. Instead, he cools them down with tap water first, then adds ice to firm them up. This method yields perfectly chilled, firm noodles using very little ice.

Adjusting the Sauce and Beautiful Plating

He takes the thoroughly chilled eggplant and aburaage out of the refrigerator and thinly slices the aburaage. The remaining simmering broth is repurposed as the noodle sauce. Since the broth is too concentrated on its own, he dilutes it with about 200cc of cold dashi to reach the perfect flavor balance. For plating, he places the chilled somen noodles in a bowl and tops them dramatically with a whole eggplant. He garnishes the side with the sliced aburaage, drained myoga ginger, and a pinch of grated ginger, then pours the dashi-diluted special sauce over the dish.

Tasting and a Playful Joke with Apprentices

It is time to taste the finished Nasu Somen. Serving the eggplant whole makes a visual impact, and biting into it releases a burst of savory-sweet broth. The rich flavor of the pan-fried eggplant and the sweet sauce coat the somen beautifully, making the eggplant both a topping and a flavor enhancer. Declaring that the dish 'calls for beer,' Kasahara happily drinks a cold beer. His apprentices then try the dish and are amazed by the deliciousness of their first Nasu Somen. The video ends on a lively note as Kasahara playfully pressures his apprentice to perform a silly pun about eggplants, which the apprentice shyly but successfully pulls off.

【賛否両論】笠原将弘の料理のほそ道

【賛否両論】笠原将弘の料理のほそ道

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