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Behind the Scenes: 4 Chefs Take on a One-Night-Only Special Course | Sanpi Ryoron Kanazawa

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On June 14, 2024, at Sanpi Ryoron Kanazawa, Hidehiro Yoshioka of "Nasubitei," Shuichiro Masutani of "Osteria Lucca," Yuichi Sato of "Ennichi," and owner-chef Masahiro Kasahara gathered to present a one-day-only special collaboration course. The course began with a five-chef collaborative Hassun (assorted appetizers), followed by cold seafood capellini, deep-fried blackthroat seaperch (nodoguro) wrapped in nori, softshell turtle chawanmushi, minced sweetfish (ayu), Noto-grown Koshihikari rice served with four types of accompaniments, and dessert. Each chef meticulously prepared their dishes starting the day before, and Chef Kasahara directed the service with a strong focus on the "timing" of serving, creating a highly polished dining experience in both food and atmosphere. This was the first time all four chefs collaborated in earnest, and the event concluded grandly with guests getting their aprons signed as a token of appreciation to the chefs.

  • Service & Timing
    • Chef Kasahara prioritized the "timing" (ma) matching the guests' eating pace, meticulously controlling when dishes were served to create a comfortable atmosphere.
  • Prep
    • Chef Sato prepared the sweetfish starting the day before, simmering it in vinegar and dashi until even the bones became tender.
  • Plating & Concept
    • In the "Minced Sweetfish with Okra, Water Shield, and Yuzu," green okra was plated to resemble river "moss," artistically representing how sweetfish feed on moss in nature.
  • Ingredient Use
    • The softshell turtle chawanmushi used a rich turtle dashi base, combined with turtle meat and new onions, and was finished with black pepper.
  • Ingredient Use
    • The cold capellini featured seasonal summer chicken grunt and crunchy ivory shell, finished with a drizzle of Chef Masutani's specially selected olive oil.
  • Rice
    • The final rice course featured Koshihikari rice from Noto, Ishikawa Prefecture, cooked in a traditional clay pot.
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  1. 1

    [Day-Before Prep] Chef Sato carefully simmers the sweetfish in vinegar and dashi until even the bones are tender, preparing it for the next day's plating.

  2. 2

    [Hassun / Finishing] Head Chef Chiku combines the baby ginger surinagashi with flaked flounder. Chef Yoshioka finishes the deep-fried and simmered Heta-murasaki eggplant and Yoshino-style simmered Gasu shrimp. Chef Kasahara pairs duck breast with blanched Kinso, sudare-fu, and wasabi gelee. Chef Masutani prepares abalone and mushrooms in a cold ajillo style. Chef Sato tops corn tofu with sea urchin. The five dishes are beautifully arranged on a single platter and served to the guests.

  3. 3

    [Cold Capellini] Prep the chicken grunt and ivory shell, then toss them with boiled and chilled capellini in a tomato and whole-grain mustard sauce. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil before serving.

  4. 4

    [Deep-Fried Dishes] Deep-fry the blackthroat seaperch in tempura batter with nori (isobe-age). Make a kakiage (fritter) of new burdock root using crushed rice crackers for the batter. Serve immediately while hot.

  5. 5

    [Softshell Turtle Chawanmushi] Create the egg mixture for the savory custard using a softshell turtle dashi base. Add softshell turtle meat, Kaga thick cucumber, and new onion, then steam. Serve with a sprinkle of black pepper on top.

  6. 6

    [Minced Sweetfish] Mince the sweetfish simmered the day before. Plate it with okra styled to look like river moss, scatter water shield over it, and serve with a touch of yuzu.

  7. 7

    [Rice and 4 Accompaniments] Cook Noto Koshihikari rice in a clay pot. Serve the white rice alongside four unique accompaniments: Chef Yoshioka's softshell turtle ginger kombu, Chef Kasahara's rolled dashi omelet, Chef Sato's curry-flavored baby sardines, and Chef Masutani's simmered Wagyu beef.

  8. 8

    [Dessert] Conclude the course by serving two desserts: mirin pudding topped with sweet red bean paste, and soft-serve ice cream paired with cherry gelee and black tea warabi mochi.

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4 Chefs Gather in Kanazawa for a Collab Course

On June 14, legendary chefs leading the Japanese culinary world gathered at "Sanpi Ryoron Kanazawa" in Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture. As owner-chef Masahiro Kasahara put it, "All of Kanazawa is buzzing," as they prepared to serve a one-day-only special collaboration course. The lineup assembled at Chef Kasahara's call included Chef Hidehiro Yoshioka of "Nasubitei," Chef Shuichiro Masutani of "Osteria Lucca," and Chef Yuichi Sato of "Ennichi." Chef Yoshioka is known as the "wizard of softshell turtle," Chef Masutani is the sole Italian chef in the group, and Chef Sato is in charge of dishes like corn sesame tofu and sweetfish. In the kitchen, even before opening, prep work packed with each chef's unique dedication progressed at a rapid pace in a warm, friendly atmosphere.

First 4-Chef Collaboration & Meticulous Prep

While they have worked together individually in the past, this was the first time all four chefs gathered to collaborate deeply from the prep stage. The idea started naturally when they talked about "doing something together" to celebrate the opening of the Kanazawa location. In the kitchen, Chef Sato showcased the sweetfish dish he had been carefully preparing since the day before, reflecting that this sweetfish prep was the most challenging part. Meanwhile, Chef Masutani self-deprecatingly joked, "I only know Japanese cuisine chefs, so I feel like a back-alley chef," while expressing how reassuring it was to have Chef Yoshioka and Chef Sato backing him up. Surrounded by his seniors, Chef Sato showed a reliable expression, saying, "I'm good at doing what I'm told, so I'm not nervous," conveying their immense mutual trust.

Pre-Opening Meeting & the Importance of "Timing"

At 10:45 AM, all staff gathered for a lunch meeting. The day was a massive success, with even the second-floor seats fully booked. Chef Kasahara lightened the mood with a joke, saying, "Let's make sure we don't embarrass these three chefs," while keeping everyone focused. When asked about his current state of mind, he replied, "Half excited, half anxious," expressing his desire to make it a "legendary service" where everything clicks perfectly. The aspect Chef Kasahara values most in customer service is the "timing" (ma) of serving dishes. He passionately explained that simply serving delicious food or offering polite service is not enough; serving dishes at the perfect pace matching each guest's dining speed is essential to creating a comfortable dining space.

A Spectacular "Hassun" Crafted by 5 Chefs

At 11:30 AM, the doors finally opened, and eagerly waiting guests took their seats one after another. The opening act was the "Hassun," a collaboration of five chefs, including Head Chef Chiku of the Kanazawa branch. The platter was beautifully arranged with Head Chef Chiku's specialty "Baby Ginger Surinagashi with Flaked Flounder," Chef Yoshioka's "Simmered Heta-murasaki Eggplant and Gasu Shrimp," Chef Kasahara's "Duck Breast with Blanched Kinso, Sudare-fu, and Wasabi Gelee," Chef Masutani's "Abalone and Mushroom Cold Ajillo," and Chef Sato's "Corn Tofu with Sea Urchin." Cries of "Delicious!" erupted from the guests, and the lively energy of watching the chefs finish the dishes right before their eyes instantly filled the restaurant with excitement.

Japanese-Italian Fusion Capellini & Fried Dishes

Next to be served was the "Cold Seafood Capellini with Tomato and Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce," a collaboration between Chef Masutani and Chef Kasahara. The dish generously featured chicken grunt, which comes into season in summer, and Japanese ivory shell, which offers a delightful crunchy texture. To finish, Chef Masutani's specially selected olive oil was drizzled over it, creating a refreshing salad-pasta-like flavor that thoroughly satisfied the guests. Additionally, the deep-fried course featured "Nori-Wrapped Deep-Fried Blackthroat Seaperch" and "New Burdock Root Rice-Cracker Fritter." The juicy fat of the seaperch paired with the crispy texture of the rice-cracker batter created an exquisite dish, captivating guests with its fresh-out-of-the-fryer deliciousness.

Softshell Turtle Chawanmushi & Artistic Sweetfish

Moving into the middle of the course, Chef Yoshioka's specialty "Softshell Turtle and Kaga Thick Cucumber Chawanmushi" was served. This masterpiece featured a savory egg custard made with a rich softshell turtle dashi base, combined with softshell turtle meat and new onions, finished with a kick of black pepper. Chef Yoshioka made the guests laugh, saying, "Your skin will be glowing tomorrow!" Next was Chef Sato's "Minced Sweetfish with Okra, Water Shield, and Yuzu." The sweetfish was simmered in vinegar and dashi until the bones were tender, and plated with green okra styled to look like river "moss." Chef Yoshioka's explanation that this represented how sweetfish grow by eating moss drew gasps of admiration and applause from the dining room.

Noto Koshihikari, 4 Accompaniments & Finale

To conclude the meal, white rice cooked in a clay pot using Koshihikari rice from Noto, Ishikawa Prefecture, was served. To accompany the rice, all four chefs showcased their skills with unique creations. The lineup was incredibly luxurious and exclusive: Chef Yoshioka's "Softshell Turtle Ginger Kombu," Chef Kasahara's "Rolled Dashi Omelet," Chef Sato's "Curry-Flavored Baby Sardines," and Chef Masutani's "Simmered Wagyu Beef." Guests went back for multiple helpings, smiling with deep satisfaction. For dessert, "Mirin Pudding with Sweet Red Bean Paste" and "Soft-Serve Ice Cream with Cherry Gelee and Black Tea Warabi Mochi" were served, bringing the special course to a close. Finally, the chefs signed the guests' aprons and took commemorative photos, bringing the one-night-only event to a highly successful end amid warm applause.

【賛否両論】笠原将弘の料理のほそ道

【賛否両論】笠原将弘の料理のほそ道

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TSUNAGARI MEO|月額5,000円でGoogleクチコミが自然に増えるMEO対策ツール