Recipe
[Behind the Scenes] Sourcing at Toyosu: Japan's Top Tempura Chef
Ingredients
- Hanasansho(flower Sichuan pepper from Nishi-Yoshino, Nara Prefecture) to taste
- Bambooshoots to taste
- Icefish(shirauo) to taste
- Waterdropwort (seri) to taste
- Riceto taste
About "Tempura & Ten-Chazuke"
A documentary following Tadashi Kusunoki, Japan's top tempura chef, sourcing at Toyosu Market. It explores his philosophy of crafting simple Ten-Chazuke using peak seasonal ingredients like flower Sichuan pepper (hanasansho) and bamboo shoots. Discover his relentless dedication—working 24/7 with zero cancellations due to illness in 24 years—and his unwavering belief that carried him through his restaurant's toughest times.
Video Timestamps
Tips for Making "Tempura & Ten-Chazuke"
-
Sourcing
- It is crucial to identify the peak moment of seasonal ingredients. Build trust with market professionals and communicate as equals regarding the best times to source.
-
Using Hanasansho
- Maximize the aroma by using a two-step method: tucking hanasansho under the rice and generously sprinkling more on top.
-
Flavor & Balance
- Ten-Chazuke is best kept simple. Use carefully selected ingredients like bamboo shoots, icefish, and water dropwort without adding unnecessary elements.
-
Ingredient View
- Japan's rich water nurtures beautiful seafood, wild vegetables, and mushrooms. Value the 'aesthetic of subtraction' to bring out the ingredients' natural character.
-
Sourcing Mindset
- Maintain a 24/7 obsession with ingredients. Respond immediately to sudden calls from fishermen and vendors to secure 100%—or even 120%—of the best quality.
Ingredients for "Tempura & Ten-Chazuke"
5 items* Tap ingredient names to find on Amazon
- Hanasansho(flower Sichuan pepper from Nishi-Yoshino, Nara Prefecture) to taste
- Bambooshoots to taste
- Icefish(shirauo) to taste
- Waterdropwort (seri) to taste
- Riceto taste
How to Make "Tempura & Ten-Chazuke"
- 1
Scoop rice into a bowl.
- 2
Tuck some hanasansho (flower Sichuan pepper) underneath the rice.
- 3
Arrange tempura such as bamboo shoots, icefish, and water dropwort on top of the rice.
- 4
Generously sprinkle more hanasansho over the top.
- 5
Pour hot dashi broth over it to complete.
Food Science
Pouring hot dashi broth volatilizes the aromatic compounds of the hanasansho tucked under the rice, releasing a rich fragrance. Additionally, combining the umami components of the dashi (glutamic acid and inosinic acid) with the umami of the ingredients creates a synergistic effect. Furthermore, the refreshing spiciness of the hanasansho (sanshool) and the bitterness of the water dropwort balance the oiliness of the tempura and the sweetness of the ingredients, rounding out the five basic tastes for a deep, multi-dimensional flavor profile.
Detailed Commentary on "Tempura & Ten-Chazuke"
* Content organized by topics from the video.
Sourcing Seasonal Produce at Toyosu Market
The master chef, one of Japan's top tempura artisans, enters the Produce Wing of Toyosu Market. He is as meticulous about sourcing vegetables as he is about fish, heading straight to his trusted vendor, "Imomatsu." By walking the market, he gets a firsthand feel for the upcoming seasons and what is starting to emerge. Looking at the Okinawan shallots (shima-rakkyo) on display, he shares his passion for pickling them. He also reveals that his restaurant serves curry only during the summer—a luxurious, American-style dish made with the head meat (miso) of wild kuruma prawns blended with spices and vegetables. He chats with market pros, visualizing the perfect vegetable accompaniments for this dish.
Building Trust with Produce Experts
The market is filled with aromatic spring wild vegetables like koshiabura, Siberian onion (gyoja-ninniku), ostrich fern (kogomi), and royal fern (zenmai). Seeking wild varieties, the chef carefully judges the perfect moment to harvest, sometimes choosing to wait a bit longer. Here, Yasukawa-san, a trusted produce expert of many years, joins him. The chef expresses his gratitude, saying, "He always helps me out in a pinch," to which Yasukawa-san replies with a smile, "Anything for Mr. Kusunoki." The two passionately exchange views on sourcing Mozume bamboo shoots and early-summer sweet corn. This equal partnership of listening and sharing information as professionals forms the foundation of the strong trust that secures their top-tier ingredients.
17,000 Yen Hanasansho and Ten-Chazuke
At the storefront, the chef's eyes lock onto an ultra-premium ingredient from Nishi-Yoshino, Nara Prefecture: hanasansho (flower Sichuan pepper). Priced at an astonishing 17,000 yen per pack, it is the most valuable seasonal produce right now. The chef passionately explains his approach to Ten-Chazuke using this exquisite hanasansho. His style involves tucking hanasansho under the rice and generously sprinkling more on top. He pairs it simply with bamboo shoots, icefish, and water dropwort, believing that keeping it simple without unnecessary additions yields the best flavor. This dish embodies the "aesthetic of subtraction" to maximize the ingredients' natural character, showcasing his true craftsmanship.
Toyosu Market and Japanese Food Culture
Looking out over the overwhelming scale of Toyosu Market, the chef remarks, "Combining seafood and produce, this is the largest market in the world. I've been to markets in Paris and New York, but Toyosu is on a completely different level." He then shares a profound culinary philosophy: "Japan's greatest resource is its spring water and rainwater." This abundant water is the root of all Japanese food culture, nurturing delicious seafood, wild vegetables, and mushrooms. He firmly believes his mission is to present these ingredients in their truest form without diminishing their value. A deep respect for the blessings of Japanese nature lies at the heart of his cooking.
A 24/7 Obsession with Sourcing
The chef declares, "When it comes to sourcing, I operate 24 hours a day." During his days in Nagoya, he went to the market daily, buying from 6:00 AM, prepping until 3:00 PM, and running the restaurant in the evening—a grueling round-the-clock cycle. That mindset remains unchanged today; receiving direct calls from fishermen or vendors at 2:00 or 3:00 AM is a regular occurrence. If he oversleeps by even 20 minutes and misses a call, those premium ingredients go to another restaurant. Even when abroad, he immediately connects to Wi-Fi to stay reachable. His relentless obsession to always secure 100%, or even 120%, of the best ingredients is what sustains his world-class cuisine.
24 Years of Trust and Overcoming Hard Times
In the 24 years since opening his restaurant, the chef has never closed or canceled a reservation due to personal illness. This stems from his intense professionalism: "I am entrusted with my customers' time, trust, and expectations." However, it wasn't always smooth sailing. There was a period of over a year and a half known as the "Kusunoki Ice Age," where they opened six days a week but saw only five customers in total. Yet, he never grew bitter, maintaining the drive to make "today better than yesterday." He viewed this hardship as a "research period to refine the restaurant," flexibly experimenting and adapting. This painful experience and tireless effort paved the way to his unwavering confidence today.
Quick Decisions and Pride as a Chef
Even when faced with the unprecedented COVID-19 pandemic, the chef did not hesitate. Guided by the strategic ideas of his wife (okami), who understands his personality better than anyone, he decided to launch takeout as soon as the shutdown was announced. He immediately went to Tsukiji to secure bento boxes. Choosing not to serve tempura, he began offering beautiful, Osechi-style boxed meals and ten-musu (tempura rice balls). It was a swift move to deliver authentic flavors to people unable to dine out. The chef takes immense pride in saying, "Before I am a tempura artisan, I am a Japanese cuisine chef with 15 years of training." This broad range of skills and flexible thinking are what empower him to overcome any obstacle.
About くすのきチャンネル
くすのきチャンネル
3,270人 subscribers ・ 天ぷら/和食
* Opens YouTube channel
* Subscriber count is as of article creation and may differ from the current number.