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Learning Pâté de Campagne from Chef Ogino of Table Ogino (Part 2)

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Ingredients

Part 2 of Chef Ogino's Pâté de Campagne prep guide. Learn how to precisely weigh and separate pork leg, liver, and back fat, followed by grinding. Kneading the meat with salt extracts salt-soluble proteins, which bind the mixture for a moist finish. While the classic golden ratio is 2 parts lean meat to 1 part liver and 1 part back fat, this recipe pushes the liver to its limit for an ultra-rich flavor. Strict temperature control and a 2% salt concentration are key to success.

  • Prep
    • Carefully separate the pork leg into lean and fat, and weigh the lean meat precisely. This is essential for a consistent pâté.
  • Prep
    • If the liver is fresh, simply rinse off any juices in a colander. Only soak in wine or milk if you are concerned about freshness.
  • Prep
    • If back fat is unavailable, substitute with pork belly. Fat trimmed from the leg meat can be counted toward the back fat weight.
  • Ratios
    • The foolproof golden ratio is 2 parts lean, 1 part liver, and 1 part back fat (2:1:1). This recipe uses a high-liver ratio (1.3kg lean to 1.1kg liver).
  • Temp Control
    • Grind the meat and back fat while ice-cold and semi-frozen. If the fat melts from friction heat, the meat will not bind.
  • Equipment
    • A 6mm grinder plate is ideal. A 3mm plate gets clogged with fibers, while a 9mm plate is too coarse for the meat to bind.
  • Seasoning
    • Aim for a salt concentration of about 2% of the total weight. Cold pâté tastes less salty than warm food, so adequate salt is crucial.
  • Kneading
    • Add salt, reduction, eggs, and red wine to the ground meat, and knead on medium speed for 4-5 minutes. This extracts proteins for a moist texture.
  • Role of Salt
    • Salt extracts salt-soluble proteins, which act as a binder. Curing the meat the day before is ideal, but kneading it in on the same day also works.
19 items

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  • Porkleg meat (cleaned lean meat only, cut into 5cm cubes) 2kg
  • Porkliver (cut into 5cm cubes) 2kg
  • Porkback fat (cut into 5cm cubes) 1kg
  • 5whole eggs
  • Salt120g (24g per kg of meat)
  • Madeirawine 50ml
  • Cognac50ml
  • Redwine (for reduction) 250ml
  • Onion(thinly sliced, for reduction) 1 large
  • Parsley(leaves only, for reduction) 40g
  • Garlic(thinly sliced, for reduction) 60g
  • Mushrooms(thinly sliced, for reduction) 60g
  • Milk(for reduction) 200ml
  • Caulfat to taste
  • Bayleaves 4
  • Thyme10 sprigs
  • Blackpepper to taste
  • Quatreépices powder (black pepper-based) to taste (including 8g of black pepper)
  • Frenchmustard (for serving) to taste
  1. 1

    Carefully separate the pork leg meat into lean meat and fat using a knife, and weigh the lean meat precisely. Cut the lean meat into long, thin strips that easily fit into the meat grinder.

  2. 2

    Cut the back fat (or fat trimmed from the leg meat) and pork liver into 5cm cubes. If the liver is fresh, simply rinse off any juices in a colander.

  3. 3

    Thoroughly chill the lean meat, liver, and back fat until they are semi-frozen.

  4. 4

    Make the reduction: Combine the onion, garlic, mushrooms, parsley, red wine, and milk, simmer until reduced, and let cool completely before use.

  5. 5

    Add salt to the chilled lean meat and mix well (curing it the day before is even more effective).

  6. 6

    Grind the semi-frozen lean meat, liver, and back fat in order using a meat grinder with a 6mm plate. Work quickly to prevent the back fat from melting due to friction heat.

  7. 7

    Place the ground meat in a mixer bowl and add the salt, cooled reduction, eggs (1 egg per 1kg of meat), Madeira wine, Cognac, red wine, and quatre épices.

  8. 8

    Mix on medium speed for about 4 to 5 minutes, kneading thoroughly until the mixture becomes sticky from the salt-soluble proteins.

  9. 9

    Pack the kneaded farce (meat mixture) into a terrine mold lined with caul fat, top with bay leaves, thyme, and black pepper, and proceed to the baking step (refer to the next video for baking).

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Prepping Pork Leg: Separating Lean and Fat

Chef Ogino's Pâté de Campagne preparation starts with prepping the meat. He begins with a fine cut of pork leg purchased from a supermarket. First, he carefully separates the lean meat and fat using a knife. While it might seem easier to use pre-mixed ground meat, the chef has a strict rule: he wants to measure the weight of the lean meat precisely. Pork leg is the perfect cut for this because the boundary between lean and fat is distinct, making it easy to trim and separate. This extra step of cleanly dividing the lean and fat is the first crucial point that greatly affects the final quality.

Why Chefs Choose Pork Leg for Consistency

The assistant asks, 'Can't we just grind the lean and fat together?' Chef Ogino explains that with cuts like pork belly, where fat and lean are heavily marbled, you cannot get an accurate ratio of each. While this might not be a big deal for small home batches, when prepping 20 to 30 kilograms at a time in a professional kitchen or for takeout, any inconsistency in the meat directly impacts the final product's quality. To consistently serve delicious, uniform pâté, it is essential to completely separate and precisely weigh the lean and fat. The trimmed lean meat is then cut into long strips that easily feed into the meat grinder.

The Science of Binding: Salt-Soluble Proteins

Adding salt to the trimmed lean meat extracts 'salt-soluble proteins' from within the meat. This is a crucial element that acts as a natural binder, holding the meat together. Ideally, curing the meat with salt the day before makes it easier to extract these proteins. However, since busy professional kitchens often don't have the time, Chef Ogino notes that mixing and kneading the salt in on the same day works perfectly fine. This flexible approach, which respects both culinary science and real-world kitchen operations, showcases Chef Ogino's highly practical cooking philosophy.

Prepping Liver: Is Doing Nothing the Best Way?

Next is prepping the pork liver. Generally, recipes recommend tedious prep work like draining the blood, carefully removing veins and connective tissue, or soaking it in milk. However, Chef Ogino laughs and says, 'Who has time for all that tedious work?' His surprising conclusion is that you don't need to do anything—just feed it straight into the grinder. However, this comes with one absolute condition: the liver must be fresh and odorless. If you are slightly concerned about freshness, soaking it in wine or milk is effective, but for fresh liver, simply rinsing off any juices in a colander is enough. This is professional wisdom aimed at reducing kitchen labor.

Back Fat's Role and Pork Belly Substitutes

Chef Ogino explains the role of back fat, which adds richness and juiciness to the pâté. The fat trimmed earlier from the pork leg is counted toward the total back fat weight. Since back fat is hard to find in regular supermarkets, it is considered a professional ingredient. If you cannot find back fat for home cooking, the chef recommends substituting it with pork belly. Since pork belly contains a high amount of fat, using it in place of back fat provides the right amount of richness. While using pork belly will slightly increase the lean meat content, it will not affect the final result at all.

The 2:1:1 Golden Ratio vs. This Extreme Recipe

The assistant asks, 'What is the ideal ratio of lean meat, fat, and liver?' Chef Ogino playfully pulls out his own book, 'The Charcuterie Textbook,' to double-check. The 'foolproof golden ratio' written in his book is 2 parts lean meat, 1 part liver, and 1 part back fat (2:1:1). Sticking to this ratio ensures a well-bound, delicious pâté regardless of the meat used. However, today's recipe is a 'special edition that pushes the liver to its absolute limit.' It features an astonishing high-liver ratio of 1.1kg of liver to 1.3kg of lean meat—nearly a 1:1 ratio. This is a chef's signature recipe designed to maximize rich flavor and a smooth texture.

The Best Grinder Plate Size & Temp Control

Now, it's time to grind the meat. Using a meat grinder attachment on a home stand mixer, the meat is ground. The key here is the size of the grinder plate holes. The chef recommends a 6mm plate. A 3mm plate is too fine, causing meat fibers to get stuck, while a 9mm plate is too coarse, preventing the meat from binding. The most critical point, however, is temperature control. The meat and back fat must be ground while ice-cold and semi-frozen. If the back fat melts from friction heat and turns into liquid lard, the meat will fail to bind, resulting in a dry, crumbly texture.

Salt Concentration and Thorough Kneading

To the ground meat, add salt, the cooled reduction (simmered aromatics), eggs (1 egg per 1kg of meat), and red wine. Here, the chef emphasizes the salt concentration. For about 3kg of total meat, he adds 60g of salt (around 2%). Terrines and pâtés, which are eaten cold, do not taste as salty as warm sausages, making a solid 2% salt concentration absolutely essential. Once all ingredients are combined, knead thoroughly on medium speed for about 4 to 5 minutes. Breaking down the meat fibers to release sticky salt-soluble proteins ensures a moist, luxurious texture that won't dry out when chilled.

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