Recipe
Beyond Looks: Mastering Fugu Sashimi | No-Water Cooling & Reverse-Cut Techniques (Part 2)
About "Fugu Sashimi (Tessa / Blowfish Sashimi)"
An in-depth guide to fugu (blowfish) sashimi techniques. Learn how air-cooling the flesh-skin (avoiding water after blanching) locks in umami, how reverse-cutting severs the fibers, and how slicing thin and long (tempane) creates a melt-in-the-mouth texture. Master the professional philosophy of prioritizing taste and texture over mere appearance.
Tips for Making "Fugu Sashimi (Tessa / Blowfish Sashimi)"
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Prep
- Air-cooling the blanched flesh-skin on a strainer after simmering with sake locks in umami and adds a subtle sweetness.
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Technique
- Slicing against the grain (reverse-cut) severs tough fibers, making the fish easy to chew and enhancing its umami.
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Technique
- Portioning and slicing the meat thin and long (tempane) thoroughly cuts the fibers, maximizing texture and flavor.
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Plating
- Slicing skin sashimi mindfully of the fiber direction makes it easier to pick up and blend with other ingredients.
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Philosophy
- Prioritize the actual eating experience and flavor over superficial visual presentation.
How to Make "Fugu Sashimi (Tessa / Blowfish Sashimi)"
- 1
Blanching the Flesh-Skin
Blanch the fugu's flesh-skin (mikawa) to give it the perfect texture. Be sure to simmer it with sake (sake-iri) to add flavor.
- 2
Portioning the Fillet (Tempane)
Portion the fugu fillet (tempane) to prepare for the reverse-cut. Dividing the meat into multiple sections helps minimize the number of tough fibers in each slice.
- 3
Slicing Sashimi with a Reverse-Cut
Slice the fugu thin and long against the grain of the fibers (reverse-cut). Slice it long enough so a single piece can stretch across a 30cm platter without breaking.
- 4
Slicing the Skin Sashimi
Slice the blanched fugu skin while paying close attention to the direction of the vertical and horizontal fibers. Avoid rough, mindless chopping; slice with ease of eating in mind.
- 5
Plating
Mix the flesh-skin and skin sashimi, then plate them to maximize the natural umami of the fugu.
Detailed Commentary on "Fugu Sashimi (Tessa / Blowfish Sashimi)"
* Content organized by topics from the video.
The Secret to Flesh-Skin: Sake-Simmer & Air-Cool
The flesh-skin (mikawa) of fugu is the tough membrane wrapping the main fillet. The chef has a unique approach that challenges the traditional methods used in professional kitchens for the last 50 years. While most chefs shock the blanched flesh-skin in water, our chef always simmers it with sake (sake-iri) and then lets it air-cool (oka-age) on a strainer without letting it touch water. This prevents the umami from washing away and infuses the sweet aroma of sake, resulting in an incredibly flavorful finish. Serving this treated flesh-skin mixed with skin sashimi brings out the absolute best of fugu's natural umami.
Shocking Blanched Flesh-Skin is a Mistake
It is commonly believed that shocking blanched flesh-skin in ice water "firms up the texture," but the chef dismisses this as completely pointless. Doing so washes away the precious umami and aroma. He passionately argues that to preserve the natural flavor of ingredients, keeping them away from water after cooking is an absolute rule, comparing it to edamame: "Nobody shocks boiled edamame in water." He teaches us that simply rethinking the traditional "water-shocking" step can dramatically elevate the flavor.
Air-Cooling Makes Shrimp & Veggies Taste Better
Many chefs shock shrimp in ice water just for looks, but air-cooling is the fundamental key to true flavor. Following the chef's advice, simply air-cooling vegetables after boiling instead of shocking them in water preserves their natural sweetness and umami, making them taste dramatically better. Modern vegetables like rapeseed blossoms (nanohana) and spinach are less bitter than greenhouse-grown varieties of the past, meaning there is little need to soak them in water to remove bitterness. This is a simple yet powerful tip you can easily try at home.
Always Use a 'Reverse-Cut' for Fugu Sashimi
The chef strongly emphasizes that you must use a reverse-cut (gyaku-biki) when slicing fugu sashimi. Fugu fibers run in a specific direction; if you slice along the grain, the fish becomes tough and impossible to chew. Slicing against the grain with a reverse-cut severs these fibers, yielding a pleasant texture and releasing sweetness and umami with every bite. Just like flounder, the true joy of fugu sashimi lies in cutting through these tight, aged fibers—a technique that defines the chef's uncompromising style.
Slicing Thin and Long: The Tempane Technique
Tempane is the technique of slicing fugu meat incredibly thin and long. In the video, the chef demonstrates this on a 30cm platter, slicing each piece long enough to stretch seamlessly from the outer edge to the center. Rather than making short, decorative cuts like the visual-heavy chrysanthemum style (kikka-tsukuri), slicing thin and long thoroughly severs the fibers, delivering the ultimate umami experience. Slicing a whole fillet without portioning won't cut the fibers properly, making tempane combined with the reverse-cut the absolute foundation of fugu preparation.
Slicing Skin Sashimi & Koji Prep Stories
When slicing fugu skin sashimi (the spiky skin), paying attention to the vertical and horizontal fibers makes it much easier for guests to pick up and eat. Slicing mindfully of the fiber direction, rather than just chopping roughly, makes a massive difference in texture when mixed with other ingredients. The video concludes with a glimpse into the chef's daily prep: washing and drying twelve 2-liter jars to combine 12 kg of fresh koji from Saga Prefecture with tamari soy sauce to make a delicious side dish to pair with sake.
About 大将に聞いてみた!
大将に聞いてみた!
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